Machine appliqué

Size One size only to fit height 104cm and chest 57cm

• dressmaker’s graph paper
• pencil and ruler
• dressmaker’s carbon paper
• 100 x 150cm cotton floral print
• lightweight iron-on interfacing
• matching coloured sewing thread
• top-stitch thread to match the contrast fabric
• 6 medium-size buttons

Dressmaker’s graph paper
If you are unable to get dressmaker’s graph paper, we are offering three A1 sheets for R15. Send your order with a cheque or postal order for R15 to Ideas magazine/Dressmaker’s Graph Paper Offer, Box 1802, Cape Town 8000.

To draft the pattern
The back is designed to include a facing down the centre back; this is given as a solid line on the pattern piece. One large square on the grid represents 5 x 5cm. Draw the pattern pieces full size on metric graph paper, using a pencil to plot the pattern pieces accurately. Draw a series of dots where the pattern pieces cross over the grid line and join the dots afterwards. A 1,5cm seam allowance is included.

To cut
Cut one front piece on the fold and two back pieces. Transfer the markers at the side seams, the fold lines down the centre back and the placement for the buttons. From the leftover fabric cut bias strips 5cm wide to bind the neck and armholes. If you have to join strips together to obtain the correct length, join them on the bias.

To sew
1 NOTE Sew all seams with the right sides of the fabric together, working a 1,5cm seam allowance. Apply interfacing to the wrong side of each back piece at the facing section. Join the back and front together from the armhole to hem at the right-hand side of the dress. Press the seam open.
2 Machine appliqué the flower motif onto the dress. Turn to page 124 for step-by-step instructions.
3 Close the left-hand side seam of the dress. Join the front to the backs at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
4 Overlock or zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the facings. Press the facing along the fold line down the centre back. Fold the facing so the right side of the fabric and facing are together; pin and tack the facing in place along the lower edge and neck edge.
5 Fold the bias strip in half with the right side uppermost. Pin and tack the binding around each armhole on the right side of the dress so the raw edge of the fabric aligns with the two raw edges of the binding. Join the ends of the tape. Start and finish the binding at the underarm edge in order to disguise the join.
6 machine stitch the binding in place, making sure that the three layers of fabric are caught into the seam. Trim the seam allowances to 5mm and press the binding to the inside of the garment. Finish the binding by sewing it in place along the folded edge, working the stitching as close to the edge as possible.
7 In the same way, sew the binding around the neck edge. Fold under a 1,5cm seam allowance in the binding at each end so it doesn’t fray. Trim the binding, fold to the inside and stitch in place. Remove tacking stitches and turn the facing through to the right side.
NOTE The binding will now be on the inside of the neckline.
8 Complete the six buttonholes down the centre back in the left back piece, working them through the fabric and the facing. Sew on the buttons on the right back piece to correspond with the buttonholes. Press a 7,5mm double hem along the lower edge and machine stitch it in place.